Okay, just a quick roundup of the holiday.
First off, it rained. All day, every day. Not the kind of sweet English rain the Poms all whinge about as it softly falls on the meadows of Kent but the 'hey, was that car floating past us just then' kind of rain and 'can you still see the road', kind of rain. So if you're English and you're reading this, let me tell you, it's not always sunny Down-Under.
On the first evening, a Sunday, I went with the nippers to reception and said, "Hello, can you tell me how to get to the restaurant?"
"Oh, yes," she said, "it's just down the corridor and first right."
When I got there it was closed. It's always closed on Sundays. It says so on the sign on the door.
"The restaurant is closed on Sundays," I said to the girl on reception.
She looked at me with a frown and said, "I know that."
They had another venue (restaurant would be too grand a word) which promised a buffet and as much as you can eat for the not insubstantial fee of $40 per person. One thing you know about places that say, 'all you can eat' is that the management know you'll take a couple of bites and you won't.
We went on the dolphin cruise on a storm-tossed day (there were no other days to choose from...) and I asked the captain - a young boy of 19 - how it was out there in the bay.
"There's a bit of swell, a bit of roll," he said, "but nothing too much."
I managed to hold on to Four as we 'rolled' but Two got away from me and next thing I knew he was sitting on a woman's lap. She was as surprised as him, but then she was in the loo at the time.
We saw plenty of dolphins, I have to say. They seemed to be laughing. Sometimes the ship rolled so close to them I could have had a quick snog, but I'd promised myself I'd never kiss another animal again (yes Tracey, I do mean you).
Nelson Bay has a great sweep of beach - white sand, beautiful clear sea, and volcanoes on its edge with an assortment of rocky outcrops and misty islands - and if you go to the lighthouse keeper's cottage, built in 1825 with wide verandahs to keep it cool in the summer sun, you get a fine and unobscured view of a simply stunning bay which is five times bigger than Sydney harbour. You can stand there with the wind in your hair and look seaward just like aborigines may have done when the first European ships hove into view, their white sails no doubt looking splendid. Today, if you swivel your eyes from the majestic view you will see Basildon. Slough or Chatswood, your choice depending on your knowledge of ill-designed towns which have been built for profit and not beauty. It is a travesty that it could have been allowed.
Down in the town the biggest buildings are two bottle shops, a pub whose glaring special offer signs make you reach for the sunnies and a branch of Coles. In the town you can get anything as long as it's a version of fish and chips for a variety of prices but all cooked seemingly in the same oil which I suspect was last changed about the time that lighthouse keeper's cottage was built.
One day we ventured out to the toboggan run which is a metal track, like a chute really, out in the bush. I once went to St Moritz and stayed at The Kings Hotel (yes, of course it was an all-expenses paid trip - do you think I am made of moola?) and had the chance to go down the Cresta Run with an Olympic champion at the helm. That was fast. But not as fast as the Nelson Bay toboggan run..."It'll be harder to brake because it's wet out there," said a nervous boy who took our money.
"Right," I said and sat Four in front of me.
All I can say is, the Cresta Run is a doddle, mate, and I'm sure in time my back will heal and I'll be able to play quoits once again or bend down to pick some weeds without involuntarily letting out a sound like I'm being murdered.
Every morning someone trudged through the howling storm, the rain beating at them mercilessly, to deliver a piece of paper which said, "due to the inclement weather we will not be delivering your newspaper this morning", before trudging back again, wetter than Nelson Bay.












